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Breeding |
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Considerations before breeding
The first weeks
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Considerations
before breeding One
once said that the definition of a show prospect puppy is one third the
pedigree, one third what you see and one third what you hope it
will be. Breeding dogs in a responsible way is not easy; there are so
many considerations, which must be clarified before the actual mating
can take place.
The first think you must consider is why you wish to breed.
It is not recommendable to breed just because the kids think it could so
cute with some puppies or because you wish to earn some money for the
holidays. You should only breed if you are truly serious about breeding
and are willing to put aside the needed money and time; raising a litter
in a proper way is hard work and cost a lot of money. When planning a litter, you must also consider what is it you wish to breed for. Do you wish to make a litter of primary workingdogs you should choose breeding stock that have proven themselves as workingdogs. If you on the other hand wish to make a litter of good family dogs, both bitch and dog should have a moderate need for activation and not be typical workingdog. The standard must however always be kept in mind regardless of what it is you are breeding for.
If
you have a bitch or dog you really want to use for breeding you must
first of all decide with your self, if she really is suitable for
breeding. Having the most wonderful dog in the world does unfortunately
not necessarily make her the best brooding bitch. One has to take just
another critical look at the bitch and only breed if you truly believe
she is in possession of qualities that are beneficial for the breed as a
whole. If not, then don’t, way too many have bred dogs that never
should have been bred at all. Take a real good look at your dog’s
pedigree, if too many carries of genetic diseases appear is it not
appropriate to use her in breeding, regardless of how beautiful she is.
Recessive diseases, like cataracts, can because of the recessive
heredity be carried in many generations to come and first cause problems
generations later. Her temper is also of great importance. It is know that aggression, fear and shyness runs in families, so if your bitch do have some problems with fear, aggression towards people or other dogs for that matter, will it not be appropriate to use her for breeding. All the above does of course go for dogs as well. Take
a good look at the bitch´s show results, there are so many good dogs
that one does not have to use the second best, on the other hand, she
does of course not have be show champion. Champion is only a show title,
it says absolutely nothing about the dogs breeding quality. On that
point is it likewise not appropriate just to look for studdogs being
champions, it is far more important to look at his offspring. Demand to
see all of his offspring and not only the few selected ones winning at
shows; a stud can not be judged by a single puppy from each litter, one
has to look at the quality of the whole litter to get an idea of his
breeding quality. Do also take a good look at his pedigree, he should
not be to related to the bitch (no closer than cousins), as he should
not have to many carriers of genetic diseases in his lines. You should
also be aware of white markings, a lot of white trim is beautiful, but
there is a risk that such a dog will give white bodysplashes to his
offspring, especially if the bitch also has a lot of white trim.
When you choose a stud for your bitch should you choose so
as bitch and dog complements each other the must. If you choose a dog
that structurally lies far from the bitch, there is no guaranty how the
offspring will turn out. If you for example breed a bitch with very long
back to a dog with very short back, will you must likely not get a
litter of pure perfect back puppies. The back of the puppies will range
from very long to very short; perhaps a couple of the pups will turn up
with acceptable backs. You will get the best results by breeding that
bitch to a dog with perfect back.
And last, but not least, both bitch and dog should have
their hips and eyes examined. The hips on both dogs should be B (fair)
or A (good-excellent) and if possible not a combination of to B dogs.
The eyes should be cleared. It is a very good idea to get this
information about the dog’s parents and grandparents too. And it
should be obviously that dogs with a hereditary disease that produced it
or any of his closest kin has, shouldn’t be used in any breeding
program.
The
bitch has already at birth developed all the eggs that she can use
through a lifetime and some extra. A special centre in the brain, called
the pituitary gland, will around the age of 6 – 14 month (about a year
in most Aussies) start producing sex hormones. Especially two hormones,
FSH (follicle stimulating hormone) and LH (luteinising hormone) are
responsible for the onset of heat.
FSH stimulates segregation of the female sex hormone
oestrogen. Oestrogen is produced in the ovaries and after fertilization
in the placenta and is responsible for growth of the oviduct and the
follicles, like this hormone also will stimulate growth of the female
characters.
LH segregation is responsible for maturing of the
follicles, ovulation, growth of corpus luteum (see below) and the
placenta. Segregation is important for the uterus preparation for
arrival of the eggs, maintenance of the uterus and prevention of
ovulation.
Approximately two days before ovulation is it possible to
record a significant increase in LH. The follicles growths and will at
ovulation rapture and release the egg to the oviduct. The ruptured
follicles will the developed into corpus luteum. This gland will during
the first periods of pregnancy secrete progesterone as well as inhibin,
a hormone that decreases the production of FSH and LH. It is therefore
possible to record an increased concentration of progesterone in the
blood.
The heat cycles is normally divided onto four periods: Proestrus:
duration 3 – 18 days. The bitch will start bleeding and swell. She
will clean herself a lot and start flirting with the dogs. Attempt to
mate will however be refused viciously. The concentration of oestrogen
in the blood will increase and the follicles start growing. Estrus:
duration 3- 14 days, a week is the normal. The bitch will seems a bit
less swollen and the discharge will have change color. The bitch will
`stand for the dog´ in this period, meaning accept mating. The
concentration of progesterone wills at ovulation increase to over 2 ng/ml.,
about 48 hours after will the eggs have matured so as fertilization can
take place. Diestrus:
duration about two month. This period will begin at the time of
ovulation to the time when the progesterone once again has drop to below
1 ng/ml., which approximately corresponds to the length of pregnancy.
The high amount of progesterone is necessary for the unset of natural
maternal instinct. The bitches will in the wild synchronise their heats.
The other bitches in the flock will then both physically and mentally be
ready to acts as babysitters for the alfa bitchs puppies. Anestrus: duration 2-10 month, normally around 4. This period begins when the progesterone concentration has dropped below 1 ng/ml. and ends when the bitch start bleeding again.
The
mating is usually done in the home of the stud, here he will feel safe
and he will not have to make himself respected first. It can however be
an advange to breed at the bitches place; a dog will mate just about
anywere, were some bitches can be a bit timid by strange surroundings.
Unfortunately it is not always enough just to place bitch and dog
together and hope they figure it out by them selves. If it is the first
time the dog tries to mate or is the bitch very dominant towards him,
will it maybe be necessary to hold the bitch. It might also be a good
idea to muzzle the bitch when force-mating, just to make sure no one is
getting bitten. Place the bitch in front of the owner, who holds onto
her collar. The owner should remain close at hand to make sure the tie
is not broken (takes from 10 – 30 min.). Some bitchs vocalise during
the tie, but there is no way she can be hurt. The stud however can be
seriously damaged, if the bitch tries to break free. Mating every second day is the optimum. The sperm is able to stay alive for at least 48 hours; mating more than this is thereby not necessary. Pregnancy can though be done with just one mating. If you have to drive many hours to get to the stud, is it perhaps a very good idea to take you bitch to the vet for a control of the progesterone level in the blood; this will tell precisely when the bitch is ovulation and thereby also the best day for mating. This blood test is absolutely necessary when you inseminates with chilled or frozen semen
Once
the breeding has take place successfully, it is just a matter of
counting days, 63 days is normal for a medium sized dog, although 60
days is normal for bitches whelping the first time.
The first 2-3 weeks shouldn’t you place your bitch in
situation that can cause stress (see development of the pups for the
reason), but otherwise is it a good idea to keep on exercising the bitch
as normal, however only as longs as she wants to and you shouldn’t
work her to hard either. On the other hand should you be careful when
you take her out among other dogs. Due to the pregnace is her immune
system on a lower basis than normal and banal virus can have a
tremendously influence on the pups ability to survive.
28 days after the first mating, is it a good idea to check
if the bitch is pregnant, either by a blood test or a scanning. If she
is pregnant it is time to switch to a good quality puppyfood and slowly
increase the portion to about double. She will at this time also start developing an udder. Around the six week will her belly slowly start increasing and you will, if you patience, be ably to feel tiny movement from the pups. The last week – 14 days should these movements be profound. Around this time will the bitch also begin to `dig nests´ around the house. 2 weeks before plan delivery is it a good idea to treat her against worms; roundworms are known to spread to the puppies during lactation. This is also the time when you should introduce the bitch to the whelping box and the room you have chosen for her to whelp in. About a
week before delivery is it not recommendable to leave the bitch alone
for longer periods of time. It would also be a good idea to notify your
vet that your expecting a litter; by also sure that to have a vet on
standby when your bitch is whelping, remember lives area at stake here!
The
eggs will after fertilization travel from the oviduct to one of uterus
horns. Implantation of the eggs into the mucous membrane of the uterus
will however first take place 17 days after fertilization. The earliest
pregnancy control can therefore first take place about 20 days after
mating. The foetus and the mothers blood banes are only separated by
very thin membranes, this allows passage of nutrients from the mother to
her foetus and waste products the other way.
Development of the foetus begins as soon as egg and sperm
has fused. They start dividing at in creatable speed and after just one
week will the precursor of the foetus axis and all the three germ layers
that a foetus is composed of, have been created.
The nervous system and the brain will slowly start
developing in the end of the second week to the mitt of the third week.
About the same time the muscles and internal and sense organs will be
developed. The legs take form in the end of the third week. In the
fourth week of pregnancy are the eyelid, hair follicles and the claws
formed. The toes will separate from the foot at the end of this week,
like the first heartbeats can be heard. In the fifth week head and body
will differentiate and eyelid and palate will merge. The sex organs will
begin their migration to their final position by the end of this week.
By the sixth week of pregnancy they have reached this position. In the
seventh week of pregnancy the bones will mineralises and tiny hear will
have covered the whole body. The eighth week will be dominated by
development of hair, pigmentation and development of pads. In the middle
to the end of the ninth week the pup will be ready to be born.
It
is possible to specify the time of delivery within about half a day by
taking the temperature of the bitch. The normal temperature of a dog is
about 38o C (101.8o F), though the morning
temperature is somewhat lower. When the temperature drops to below 37 o
C (99o F) will the delivery normally take place with in
24 hours; a significant drop in progesterone causes this drop in
temperature. Take the temperature both in the morning and evening
starting about one week before schedule labor. Other signs of the
upcoming labour are increased desire to sleep and defecate, panting and
nervousness and decreased appetite.
The first labour is weak and you will normally be able to see anything
else but a bitch a bit more nervous than usually. She will `know´ that
the delivery has to take place on an empty stomach, so she will need
frequently chances to get out. Vomiting can happen too.
When labor
set in and she has chosen a place to give birth, is it not advisable to
move her, let her have all the puppies and then move her to a whelping
box. There is nor no need to have a lot of helpers or other people
standing by. Most bitches handle the delivery without any problems and
too many people around her will only make her unsafe and stress her.
Remember that in nature the bitch normally will give labour all by
herself, meaning without the company of the rest of the pack. At the second stage labour can be seen as strong contraction of the abdomen, as well as a distant look in the face of the bitch. The first bladder (allantois) will be visible as the first. Its function is to dilate and smear the birth canal. When this bladder rupture (the water breaks) the first pup must be born within two hours. The other bladder (amnion), which surrounds the pup, will be the next visible in the birth canal. The final expulsion of the puppy can clearly be seen; the bitch will stretch out and tighten her back as well as raising her tail (if she’s got one). She can wimp or cry with pain when the pup is push the last way trough the birth canal.
Immediately after the pup has been born, you tear a hole
in the membranes that surrounds the pup and frees the pup’s airways of
mucus. The bitch will tear the umbilical cord and begins to licks the
pup. She may seem rather rough against the pup, but it is necessary for
stimulating breathing. If the bitch doesn’t tear the umbilical cord,
you will have to cut it about three cm from the pup’s belly.
Take at once the pup; place it on a small towel belly up in your
hands. Swing the pup in a gentle, but form curve towards the grown. This
movement will remove all mucus from the pup’s airways. Do remember to
support the pups head and keep a gentle but form grip at. It might be a
good idea to have the technique demonstrated by your vet. After the birth of each pup, the mother will lick it dry and possibly try to eat the umbilical cord, it is OK to let her have some, but to many will give her stomach trouble. Offering her some water will be a good idea, though. Weigh the pup and record it along with sex, color, markings and tail length.
The placenta will be born after delivery of each pup. It is quite
normal that the bitch will eat it, but try to keep count of how many
there has been born and if they are intact; remaining placenta can cause
infections.
The puppies are normally born within minutes to half hour of each other, but a couple of hours between the later ones are not uncommon. Longer though, is often a sign of problems, like breech births (puppies being born feet/tail first). Do not hesitate call the vet at once!
Warning signals
that you should be aware of during delivery and when to call the vet is
listed below:
After a successfully birth should the bitch have a chance of getting out and it would be highly recommendable to wash her backside. Change the pads in the whelping box and give then the bitch some peace and quiet to get to know her puppies. However, if one of the pups `refused´ to suckled you will have to force it to do so by pressing a drop of milk, open its mouth and place it around the nipple. The first two days does the bitch not produce milk but thick colostrums rich in antibodies; it is very important that the pups get as much as possible of this with in the next 48 hours. After that will the pups digested them before the can absorb the antibodies. After a couple of days are the colostrums replace by milk. It is the pups themselves that by stamping stimulates the milk to flow; this means that the number of pups decides how much milk the bitch will produce.
The bitch will spend a lot of time with her puppies and
frequently lick their bellies; the little ones can not urinate of
defecate by them self before end of the second week, so this licking is
necessary for their digestion. The bitch will often show great
resilience to leaving the pups and it might then be necessary to feed
her and give her water in the whelping box. Offer her plenty of fresh
water and give her as much as food as she likes; she will not get fat!
It
is normal that the bitch has looser stool than normal; it is cause by
licking the puppies. It is also normal that she will have a bloody
discharge the next couple of weeks. She will try to keep her self clean
by licking her self a lot, but it would be a good idea to help by
washing her every day. Do also take the temperature for the next couple
of days; it should return to normal with in a few days. If it doesn’t
she might have an infection and will need to go to the vet at once. The room where the puppies and the bitch are, is secret the first few weeks; you should not invite any one over to see the pups before the pups are about three weeks old. It is however a good idea to have a vet over to check the pups and the bitch and also make an attest if some of the pups are born bobtailed. The temperature in the room should be around 25-26 degree Celsius; the puppies are not capable of controlling their own body temperature before they are a couple of weeks old and the most common cause of death amongst young puppies are in fact due to low temperature. Weigh the puppies every day for the first weeks. They should gain at least 20-50 grams per day, although it is normal that they loose a bit the first day. This weight loss mustn’t however be more than max. 10 % of the pups weight at birth and the pup must have gained its birth weight again at his second day. The pups should have double their weight when they are one week old and triple it at two weeks. It one of the pups doesn’t put as much as he should in weight, is it a good idea to let him suckle alone in the groin region for about 5-6 times a day or hand feed him. The first weeks is the most critically one. If all pups survive and have gained what they should the first week, you can start to relax a bit. The first couple of weeks will the bitch clean both the pups and the whelping box, your work is then limited to weighing them every day and cutting their claws every week. My puppies lay on a pedbed; it prevents them from getting wet even if they should leak, it should however be washed every day.
The puppies nervous system isn’t fully developed at birth, so the pup are not capable of fast movement and they can neither hear nor see. This means that they aren’t capable of moving if the bitch should lay on them. I try to minimize this by sleeping beside the whelping box for the first two weeks. Another good idea is to place a thick madras in the bottom of the whelping box, the pup will not be squashed to death if the bitch should lay on it.
Around the 14th day the pups will begin to open their
eyes, although they can’t see properly yet. Three weeks old will the
outer ear canal open and the pups the pups can begin to hear. Around the
same age will the puppies begin the fist attempt to leave the whelping
box and they will start playing with each other. From this time on, the
pups will be everywhere on less you block an area for them to be in.
Cover the whole floor with newspapers (black and white) and clean up as
soon as you discover that they have leaked. Doing this you will help the
housebreaking and prevents tendencies to eat stool. Three weeks old is
also time for the pup’s first treatment against worms. You can also
start feeding them some easy digestible food, which they can lick up (dissolved
puppy dry food). Slowly add more and more dry food; so as they are use
to dry food when they are 8 weeks old. When the pups are about four
weeks old veining should slowly begin? The method I use is to take the
bitch away from the pups at night at first. She will normally suckle
then for 3 times at night, so I will cut one suckling away for every
second day. At the beginning of the fifth weeks the bitch can be away
from them all night and the pups will then suckle about five times per
day. I will then reduce the suckling at the same way, cut down one
suckling every second day. I will then hamper them for suckling a whole
day, let them suckle one time the next day and hamper them for 48 hours.
The bitch should them by dried out for milk and she can return to the
puppies. I myself do not take the birth from the puppies, but have
designed an `anti-suckling-dress´, so as she can be with her pups
without them being able to suckle. When the pups are three weeks old is it important to get them use to as many things as possible. The more they pups are use to when they are 3-5 weeks old, the easier life will be for them and their new families. It is a very good idea to invite as many as possible over to see the puppies and if you know some friendly dogs (that you are certain not carries worms or any diseases) it might be a good idea to invite them along. When the puppies are about 7 or 8 weeks of age is it time for the puppy test, a trip to the vet for their first shot, the health and eye checks and they should be treated against worm. When it is time for the pups to leave (best around 9 weeks) give the new owners a bag with some of the food the pup are use to, an instruction to proper care, all the pups papers, the contract, puppy class and so on.
Good luck with your litter.
The above is based on own experiences, "the Royal Canin Dog Encyclopedia", the webpage "Pet Bits For You, the webpage "All About Dogs", and "Hvalpe på vej" by Birgitte Schjøth
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