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Kennel
info

LP1
LP2 LP3 LPCh. RBM RVM RLBDM10 DKRLCh. Painted Magic Beyon the Veil
ATDs OTDd STDc
About
us
I
was born in 1976 and have a master degree in etology from
Copenhagen University. I am furthermore a licensed clicker
trainer from Canis.no.
I bought my first Aussie in 1999 - after thorough consideration.
I fell so much in love with this breed that I two year later imported two
puppies from USA and my first litter was born
two year later again.
Though I am a breeder of this wonderful bred, is breeding fare
from the most important aspect. My dogs are first and foremost
beloved pets/members of the familiey: they live in the house in
one united group, no dogs are isolated in crates or
kennels and I bring them to must of my daily activities.
Both me and both dogs enjoys hiking in the nature around us, in
the summer often for days at the time. I do furthermore train my
dogs on a regular basis, primarely obedience but also rally,
agility, herding and tracking (blood).
Breeding
goals
Kennel
Painted Magic have only a few, but carefully plan litter. I
breed only when I my self need a pup for training or further
breeding.
I believe it possible to breed an Aussie that have the whole
packet: a healthy dog with natural working and guarding instinkt
and at the same time a dog with drive and will-to-please to do
well in the most dog sports. It is however important to preserve
a breed-typical conformation (accordingly to the original
standard) and of course: a dead solid Aussie-temper. I do
however NOT breed showdogs or working dog. My goal are an
allround dog: a great family pet that looks like a typical
Aussie has has the abilities to do well in hobby and sport
activities
I try to achieve this goal by carefully selection of the
breeding stock. The breeding stock has as a minimum been cleared
of HD (hip dysplasia), ED (elbow dysplasia), hypothyroidism and
hereditary eye diseases, they have been approved for breeding
accordingly to the Danish Kennel Clubs regulations and at least
one of the parent has working achievements. DNA test and mental
profil will also be conducted when ever possible.
In order to minimies the risk of double up on weakness, do do I
furthermore spend a lot of time checking pedigress for genetic
weakness.
After evaluating several blood lines and dogs from different
breeders, I have found just what I have been looking for in the
Mistretta and the McMatt dogs. Future litters will therefore be
related to dogs from these kennels.

DKCh.
Dungeon Master as a pup and as class winner at Cruft
"Terms
and conditions"
Buying
a pup is a matter of trust. I breed with my heart and do
therefore wish the very best for pups. Please fill in the questionnaire
(coming soon). At least three
references must also be
provided.
I do require the following for all potential puppy buyers:
-
You
keep the pup as a put and he/she lives as an integrated part
of the family. No kennel og crating
-
That
you take at least one week off from work
-
That
you and the pup participate in a puppy training program
-
That
you have the eyes check at least twice in the pups life,
around 3 and 7 year of age
-
That
the pups has been hip/elbow x-rayed before it is 3 years old
-
That
you attend a mental test if such is available in your
country.
-
That
the pup isn't put into the trust of others or put to sleep without my approval
-
You
stay in touch at least once a year
All
pups are sold at the age of 10 weeks primarily on co-ownership.
The
puppies have been thoroughly evaluated for temper, structure and
workingabilities and will based on this be matched with their
future owners. I do not sell pup based on color or tail lenghts!
New owners are told which pup they are offered to buy at the age
of about 8 weeks.
The puppy are sold with
-
Pedigree
from the Danish Kennel Club (FCI)
-
Health
and eye check at 8 weeks
-
ISO
chip
-
The
first shot
-
Pet
passport
-
Three
treatment against worms
-
a
puppy "book" with info and pictures of the pup,
parents and littermates
-
Food
for the first couple of weeks

Elessar
of Erendil - allround working dog with "style and structure"
Growing
up
The
pups spends
the first three weeks of their life secured from the rest of my
dogs. Visitors are not allowed during this period but
socialization is already begun by handling the pups on a daily
basis. Buyers - and guests- are however most welcome to visit
the pups as often as they like when they are three weeks old,
the transition to the new home will then be a lot easier for the
pup.
The pups are offered the first solid food at the age of 2½ to 3
weeks. I have chosen to give them a mixture of both raw and
quality kibbles, I do thereby hope that the possible transfer to
kibbles in the new home not will be a totally chock for them.
Objects
of different types, shapes and so on will also be introduced at
this age, for example balls, toys, but also larger object
that may seem frightening, that can move and/or make noises.
At the age of three weeks the pups will also slowly be
transfered to the puppy-pen in the sitting room. Here
in the centre of the family they can get use to being a dog in a
modern family and not at least being a member of a larger dog
group. By
living in a - stabile - group with at least two bitches and a
dog the pups are learning one of the most important lessons in a
dogs life: to be a dog and learn to communicate with other dogs.

The
puppy-pen will from the age of 4-4½ weeks be "transformed"
to a real playpen with different kinds of obstacles and other
challenges. These obstacles shall - in a safe way - promote
coordination, balance and curiosity. In this age the pup will,
depending on the weather, be given the change of getting
outside and when they are comfortable I start the house breaking.
5 weeks old the pups will be introduced to a small harnest and
will be taken their first "walk" down the road a week
later - if they are ready. 8 weeks old we take them for a walk
in a quiet suburban neighborhood and 9 weeks old in the city.
The pups will at this age be completely use to the car.

You
are most welcome to contact me if you have any question.
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