My puppies


 

Who am I

 

Breeding goals

 


 

Contact

 


 



 


 

 

5 weeks old PM Dungeon Master

 

Kennel Painted Magic have only a few, but carefully plan litter. I breed only when I my self need a pup for training or further breeding.

   I believe it possible to breed an Aussie that have the whole packet: health, temper, working abilities and looks, meaning a strong and heathy dog that possies the instinct, drive and will-to-please to do well in the wokring areana aswell have the conformation to do well in the show areana - but most important: a dead solid temper.

   I try to achieve this goal by carefully selection of the breeding stock. The breeding stock has as a minimum been cleared of HD (hip dysplasia), ED (elbow dysplasia) and hereditary eye diseases, they have atchieve a minium of Good at a FCI show and at least one of the parent has working achievements.

   Before a breeding takes place I spend a lot of time selecting just the right breeding stock, checking temper, gathering information about eyes, hips etc. - double up on weakness is something I tries very hard to avoid.

   After evaluating several blood lines and dogs from different breeders, I have found just what I have been looking for in the Mistretta dogs. Furture litters will therefore must offen be related to dogs from this HOF kennel.

 

Buing a pup

It is a matter of trust to buy a pup, both for the person buying the pup but also the breeder. You can therefore expect me to ask question about both you and your expectations for the pup. At least three referrences must also be provided.

   I do as a breeder require the following for all person buying pups from me:

  • That the pup live as an integrated part of the family. 

  • That you take at least one week off from work

  • That you and the pup participate in a puppy training program

  • That the pup are trained and lives and active life

  • That you have the eyes check at least twice in the pups life, around 3 and 7 year of age

  • That the pups has been hip/elbow x-rayed before it is 3 years old

  • That you attend a mental test if such is available in your country.

  • That the pup is not put to sleep with out my approval

  • That the pup isn't put into the trust of others without my approval

  • You stay in touch, letting me know at least once a year how things are going etc.

All pups - with a very few carefully chosen cases - are sold on co-ownership.

 

The pups are ready to leave the kennel at 10 week. I try to socialise the pups as much as possible during these weeks, but in order for the pup to have a good and balanced life it is crucial that this training is continued and intensify during the next year - I have done the basis the rest is up to the person who buy the pup. If a pup for some reason hasn't been sold at 10 week he/she will be getting a basic training, the socialization will continue and the pup will of course live as an integrated part of the family.

   Every family should feel that they got first pick, the best pup of the litter. All puppies have therefore been put through a puppy evaluation and the puppies will be based on this - and the individual puppy’s working ability and type - be matched with their future owners. The new owners are told which pup they are offered to buy at the age of 8 weeks.

   The puppy are sold with

  • Pedigree from the Danish Kennel Club (FCI)

  • Health check at 8 weeks

  • Eye check at 6-8 weeks

  • ISO chip

  • The first shot

  • Pet passport

  • Three treatment against worms

  • a puppy "book" with info and pictures of the pup, parents and littermates

  • Food for the first couple of weeks

Every third year we have a kennel day. I expect all puppy buyers to participate in one such day during the dogs life.

 

A pups life

My puppies are born in my bedroom and will spend the first three weeks of their life secured from the rest of my dogs. In this period is visitors not allow, though the crucial socialization to life for a dog in a modern society will already begin at this point by handling the pups on a daily basis.

 

 

The real work with socialization starts when the pups are three weeks old. The pups will during the next 7 weeks be introduced to new impression in a pace so all pups feel comfortable. Objects of different types, shapes and so on will be introduced one at the time starting with small bears etc. when the pups are still in the whelping box. Larger object that may seem frightening, that can move and/or make noises will be introduced later on.

 

 

The pups will slowly be transferred to the playpen in the sitting room. This process takes about a week, as the pups have to be comfortable with all the rooms between the sitting room and my bedroom. At 4 weeks they will spend most of the day in the sitting room and here in the centre of the family they can get use to being a dog in a modern family: cleaning, music, TV and so on.

   Another very crucial step in this age is the first meeting with the rest of the dogs, a day all dogs has been waiting for with great expectation - and the delightment of this new members so high that no one can have any doubts of their affections. But the pups affection is just as high, they have especially developed a true love for my dog Sirius. By living in the centre of a - stabile - pack with at least two bitches and a dog the pups are learning one of the most important lessons in a dogs life: be a dog and learn to communicate with other dogs.

 

 

The playpen in the sitting room will from the age of 4-4˝ weeks be "transformed" to a real playpen with different kinds of obstacles and other challenges. These obstacles shall - in a safe way - promote coordination, balance and curiosity. Again the obstacles are introduced one by one so that all pups fells comfortable at all time. The pups are of course allowed to run loose in the house several times a day.

 

 

The pups will at the age of 4 weeks be given the change of seeing the world outside, depending on the weather of course, if it is too wet or cold only for 5 to 10 minutes at he time. I will start the house breaking when they are comfortable being outside, take them outside when ever they have just slept and so on.

 

 

The pups and the dam are put in a special pen with wooden chips (?) when they have to be alone. This will prevent the bad habit of eating the stool but also make them use to different substratum.

 

 

The pups are offered the first solid food at the age of 2˝ to 3 weeks. I have chosen to give them a mixture of both raw and quality kibbles, the transfer to kibbles in the new home will thereby not be a totally chock for them.

 

 

The pups will be totally used to crates and riding in cars before leaving, must often will they just go to sleep when they are in a car. They will also be use to walking in a lease, at first only up and down "the block", later along the roads and they will be taken to the nearby town at 9 weeks.

 

 

The pups will of course also have the chance of running loose, where depends on the weather and season. At least one of the adult dogs will be joining to create security.

 

 

When I judge that the pups are ready for it strange dogs will be invited to visit us - of course only nice and healthy dog. We will furthermore go visiting friends with nice dogs. The pups will during such visit always have the change of seeking comfort in the crate, like an adult dog will be joining to create a safe haven for the pups. 

 

 

The socialization to strangers starts at three weeks when friends, people from work, training etc. are invited to our house, puppy buyers are also encourage to visit the pups as often as possible, the transition to the new home will then be a lot easier for the pup.